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Two cards are dealt to both the Player and the Banker. A player or casino operator holding the shoe slides one card out and places it face up in the Player’s box on the felt table. The next card, the first of the Banker hand, is placed in the Banker’s box on the table. The house then deals another Player card, then the second Banker card. 10 – double unless the dealer is showing a 10 or an Ace. 9 – double if the dealer is showing 3 through 6, otherwise hit. 8 and lower – always hit. If you’re completely new to the blackjack rules and strategy, the whole thing may seem a bit confusing at first. Hi-low is always you versus the dealer. They use a standard pack of cards, shuffle it, then place a card face-down and another face-up. You then place a bet, which the dealer matches. Then, you have to decide whether the face-down card is of a higher or lower value. - The cards are distributed two by two, or otherwise, but it is never permitted to give more than three at a time, we begin with the right. The strongest card is the king; then come the lady, the valent, the ace, the ten, the nine, the eight, and the seven.
There are countless card games out there ranging over several genres. Most people are familiar with casino style games like poker and blackjack and almost everyone has sat down to a game of solitaire. But how to play Rook?
Trick-taking games are a specific style of card game, often played with a partner, and include favorites like Hearts, Euchre, Pinochle, and the game we’ll be discussing here, Rook. Most trick taking games are similar in their style of play but differ mainly in scoring and bidding. Let’s explore how to play Rook.Quick Navigation
Image via Pixabay
Rook is a trick-taking game that was introduced in the United States about a century ago. Parker Brothers designed a deck of card especially for the game in 1906 and it has been a staple of the genre since.
Though it is be possible to use a set or two of classic playing cards with a few alterations to play the game, it may be best to buy a Rook set of cards to play.
The length of the game depends on several factors. A round usually takes a few minutes, but, depending on the skill of the players and the point threshold you’ve chosen, a full game could take an hour or more. Also, trick-taking games are notorious for inciting that ’one more game’ impulse, whether you’ve won or lost.
A Rook deck is comprised of 57 cards. There are four suits with cards ranging from 1 to 14. The 57th card is a Rook card, typically featuring a picture of a bird, and the highest trump card in the game. When playing classic Rook, it’s common to remove the 1’s 2’s 3’s and 4’s from the deck. Other variations, such as the popular Kentucky West rules, leave those cards in.
When you’re learning how to play Rook, know that it first requires four players in teams of two sat opposite and kitty-corner from each other. This means all players sit diagonally from their partner and are unable to see anyone else’s hand.
The goal of Rook is to reach the point threshold before the opposing team. It is most common to play to 1000 points, but your group can opt to raise or lower this threshold as you see fit. You score points at the end of each round for taking certain cards when you win tricks. Most cards are not worth any points and those worth points are as follows:
*5 = 5 points
*10 = 10 points
*14 = 10 points
*Rook = 20 points
*Winning the last hand of ’trick’ = 20 points
Once the 1’s through 4’s have been removed and the Rook card has been added, there should be a deck of 41 cards. One player randomly selected starts as the dealer. The dealer should shuffle the deck thoroughly and present the deck to a player of the opposite team for a cut. After the cut, the dealer deals out all the cards one at a time to each player.
When each player has received one card, the dealer places the next card in the center of the table. This continues until five cards have accumulated in the center forming the ’nest’. The remaining cards are dealt normally so that each player will have a hand of nine cards. Bidding then begins.
Learning to bid is one of the toughest parts of learning how to play Rook. It may take several games before you feel comfortable assessing the strength of your hand and gauging your bids. The bid indicates how many points you believe your team can secure in the round. If you win the round but fail to meet the bid, you are penalized points during scoring.
Bidding begins with the player to the left of the dealer and continues around the circle clockwise. The bidding begins at 70 points and players have the option to either raise the bid by a minimum of 5 points or pass. Once you have passed, you cannot bid again this round. Bidding is capped at 120 points.
Once a player has made a bid and all other players have passed (or is a player bids 120 points) bidding is over. The winning bid takes the five nest cards, adds them to his/her hand and then chooses five cards to set aside. The player then declares the trump suit and round play begins.
Image via Pixabay
Play begins with the player to the left of the dealer. The dealer chooses any card of any suit and plays it down face-up. Continuing clockwise around the table, players choose and play a card from their hand. Players must follow suit if they are able or play the Rook Bird card. If a player does not have any cards of the lead suit, that player is free to play any card from their hand.
Once all players have played a card, the four cards are given to the player who won the trick. The Rook Bird is the highest trump in the game and always wins the trick is which it is played. If the Rook Bird was not played, the highest card of the trump suit wins. If no trumps were played, the highest card of the lead suit wins.
Whoever wins the trick leads in the following trick. Tricks won are placed face down in front the player who won the trick and cannot be reviewed or looked at by any player until after the round is over. Whoever wins the last trick is given the five nest cards that were set aside and scores any points within.
Once all tricks have been taken, teams add up all the points from their captured cards. Remember, only 5’s, 10’s, 14’s and the Rook are worth points. Teams then add those points to their total score.
If the team that won the bid failed to reach their winning bid, they are awarded no points and instead must subtract the bid amount from their score. The non-bidding team scores points as normal.
If a team reached the score threshold, they win the game. If both teams reach the score threshold simultaneously, the team with more points is the winner.
Image via Pixabay
There is no official way of ’how to play Rook.’ Many variations and house rules have emerged over time, and even you may want to change the rules to make the game more enjoyable for your play group. We’ll just go over a few common variations and rules changes
Kentucky West includes all the cards, one through fourteen, from each suit in addition to the Rook. Ones (or Aces) are the highest in their suit, making the card ranking. The 1’s are included in scoring and are worth 15 points each.
The rook has a different role in this variation and is treated as a zero of the trump suit, meaning it can still be playedat any time as a trump but will lose to any other trump in the game.
The addition of scoring 1’s means there are more points up for grabs in a round and the bidding threshold is raised to 180. The point threshold is often set at 500 in this variation.
This variations makes it so that each player has an individual score and teams can change round to round. Play is as normal except that once the high bidder has seen the nest and makes his choice of trump, he or she calls out a card. It must be a card the person doesn’t have or is in the nest.
Whoever has the card becomes the partner of the high bidder, but this information is kept secret until the called card has been played. Scoring functions as normal, but since teams change between rounds, each player’s score must be tracked separately.
Image via Pixabay
There are many slight variations to the game that you may want to make. Keep in mind that any of these rules should be agreed upon before the game begins and none of them make the game objectively better or worse, they are simply here to add flavor to the game.
If a player is dealt a hand with no point cards (5’s, 10’s, 14’s, a Rook, or 1’s) they may call for a misdeal. Reshuffle the cards and the same dealer deals a new hand.
If a team is able to take all tricks in one round, they score an additional 100 points. Some variations give additional points or immediate victory to a team that bids a max bid and takes all tricks.
Some variations call for the high bidder to never put point cards into the nest. If they are unable to do so do to having too many point cards, they must announce to the group that the nest contains points.
However, when this rule is not in effect it does have the added benefit of allowing the high bidder to stash points in the nest in a risky maneuver to win last trick.
Many trick taking games contain a pass phase after hands have been dealt. In some variations of Rook, this has been added.
After the high bidder has set aside the nest, all players choose three cards from their hand and pass it to an opponent. The passing alternates round by round, left then right then left again and so forth.
Image via Pixabay
So that’s it! Now you know how to play Rook, and you’ll have a lot of fun setting your own hour rules for you and your family.CassinoOriginEnglandTypeFishingFamilyMatchingPlayers2–4Skills requiredTacticsCards52DeckAnglo-AmericanPlayClockwisePlaying time10-15 min.Random chanceMediumRelated gamesEscoba, Scopa, Skwitz, Zwickern
Cassino (US) or Casino (Europe), is a fishing card game, often said without substantiation to be of Italian origin, for two, three, four (possibly in two partnerships), or even theoretically five players. It is the only fishing game to have penetrated the English-speaking world. It is mostly played by two with a standard deck of playing cards, the object of the game being to score 21 points by fishing up cards displayed on the table. It is very similar to the later Italian game Scopa.History[edit]
Although Cassino is often said to be of Italian origin, despite detailed research by Pratesi, there is no evidence of it ever being played in Italy and the earliest references to its Italian cousins, Scopa and Scopone, post-date those of Cassino.[1]
In fact, as ’Casino’, the game is first recorded in 1792 in England[2] where it appears to have become something of a fashionable craze.[1] At that stage, sweeps were not part of the rules – that came later.[1]
One country to follow hard on English heels was Austria-Hungary where, as early as 1795 in Vienna and Prague, rules were published that incorporated English terminology such as “sweep” and “lurch.”[3] Rules continued to be published in German until at least 1975.[4]
However, while the game began to fade away in England, it was in America that Cassino gained its second wind in the second half of the 19th century, largely due to several interesting new variants that emerged, including what became Royal Cassino, in which court cards were given a numerical value such that they could capture two or more cards, Spade Cassino, in which players scored for the most Spades, and Diamond Cassino, in which three cards are dealt instead of four. In America, it was eventually eclipsed by Gin Rummy.[1]The deal[edit]
The dealer deals four cards to each player and four cards face up in the center. Traditionally, the deal is in twos: two cards at a time to each player. The remainder of the deck is temporarily put aside. After everyone has played their four cards, another hand of four cards is dealt to each player from the remaining cards (two at a time), but no more cards are dealt to the table after the first deal. After these cards have been played there is another deal, and this continues until all 52 cards have been dealt. The dealer announces ’cards’ when dealing the last cards. After the last cards have been played, and the hand scored, the deal passes to the left for the next round.The play[edit]Casino Card Game Instructions And Rules Against
Beginning with the player to the dealer’s left, each player plays one card at a time, performing one (or more) of the following actions:
*Trailing: Any card may be discarded face up to the table.
*Pairing: Any card may be used to take one or more cards of the same number, or a build with the same value, that is face up on the table.
*Combining: A number card may be used to take two or more cards whose pips total the number on the card being used to take them. For example, a player may take a 3 and a 6 with a 9, or may take a 2, 4, and 4 with a 10.
*Building: Cards may be built upon in one of two ways (see Building).
Players may perform two of the above actions only when pairing and combining simultaneously; e.g. a player may take a 3, a 4 and a 7 with his own seven.
Players with builds on the table are limited in the actions they are permitted to make. This is described in more detail below.
Face cards do not have a denomination in Cassino and are not available for building. The face-cards may only be paired one at a time; if there are two queens on the table, only one queen can be paired up. This removes the possibility of a so-called ’orphan’ face card remaining and preventing further sweeps.
An ace has a numerical value of 1.
Cards are usually left on the table after each player’s final hand is exhausted. These cards are given to the last player to take in cards through pairing or combining. It is common for the dealer, if dealt a face-card in the final hand, to hold this until the final play, as they are certain to pair with it.Building[edit]
Under the first type of building, a player may lay one card on top of another if their total equals the total of a card in their hand, and announce that the two cards are built to the total. For example, a player may build a 2 onto a 7 and announce ’building nine,’ provided they have a 9 in their hand. The two cards cannot be split up for pairing or combining and are treated as a single nine.
Builds of this type may be taken in by any player by pairing. The building player’s adversaries may also take in a build by combination, increasing the capturing number; that is, an eight build may be combined with an ace if an adversary holds a nine. Any player may also continue to build on a build, for example, a seven build could be built to nine by a player with a 2 and a 9. The player who originally builds may also re-build, but only if they hold all appropriate cards: they would have to hold both a 7 and a 9 to make the required building steps.
Under the second type of building, called ’multiple building,’ ’natural building’, or ’double building,’ a player may lay one card on top of another if their values are the same, and announce that the two cards are built together. That is, a player can place a 7 on top of another 7, or on top of a 5 and a 2 which have been built to 7, and announce ’building sevens,’ provided that he has a 7 in his hand. The built cards are gathered only with another 7. As with the first build type, a player must hold the card necessary to gather his build for the natural build to be permissible. Importantly, the capturing number of a multiple build can never be changed.[5]
An optional rule is that, when building in this manner, players may combine other cards on the table, and build in the first manner. For example, suppose the cards on the table are 2 K 6 5 8, and the player holds a 3 and an 8. They may play their 3 onto the 5 to ’build eight’ and in the same move ’build eights’ by gathering the 5-3, the 8, and the 6-2 together onto one pile, taking in all five cards on their next play.Advantages gained through building[edit]
Building exists as a means of protecting cards from being captured by adversaries. The first form of building is a weaker form of protection, and primarily protects cards against combination by mid-to-high range cards. Natural building is a much stronger protection, and prevents adversaries from taking cards unless they hold a card of specific face value, one of which the builder already knows resides in their own hand.
The value of building decreases significantly as the number of players in the game increases. In a two-player game, one requires only one adversary to be bereft of the necessary cards; in a four-player game, one requires three adversaries to be lacking the necessary cards to steal a build. As such, building effectively in a two-player game can be very advantageous, but in a four-player game is very difficult.Acting with builds on the table[edit]
At least three rule variants exist dictating the actions which may be taken by a player who has a build on the table:
*Variant 1: a player with a build on the table is not permitted to trail a card until that build has been taken in or rebuilt upon by an adversary; they may, however, pair or continue their ’build’ with any card on the table.
*Variant 2: a player with a build on the table is obliged to either take in that build, by pairing or combination, or to add to that build on their next turn.
*Variant 3: A player with a build on the table cannot trail. Play must initiate from the hand. Continuing a build from only cards on the table is not allowed. You must either take in the build, duplicate it or increase it, OR defer by starting another build or assuming ownership of an opponent’s build. A build ’belongs’ to the last player that set its value. You may assume ownership of a build started by another by increasing it. But only if it consists of a single combination, i.e., not duplicated. You may have more than one build, but only one of any particular value, and having a build of the same value of another (an adversary’s) makes no sense at all.
While Hoyle recommends variant 1, all variants are very common in different regions. The regional variant of this rule in particular should always be checked before play.
Which variant is used changes the tactics, particularly in a two-player game. Under variant 1, the builder has a profound advantage; if they know that their adversary lacks the cards necessary to steal their build, they can often take several cards trailed by their adversary before taking in their build at the end of the round. Variant 2 allows the adversary to trail a card they wish to subsequently capture without the risk of it being taken, reducing the builder’s advantage.Scoring[edit]
The round is over when the stock has been exhausted, and the last deal played. Players count their tricks and score points as follows:
*Higher number of cards: 3
*Higher number of spades: 1
*10 of diamonds (’big cassino’, ’big ten’, or ’good ten’): 2
*2 of spades: (’li
https://diarynote-jp.indered.space
Two cards are dealt to both the Player and the Banker. A player or casino operator holding the shoe slides one card out and places it face up in the Player’s box on the felt table. The next card, the first of the Banker hand, is placed in the Banker’s box on the table. The house then deals another Player card, then the second Banker card. 10 – double unless the dealer is showing a 10 or an Ace. 9 – double if the dealer is showing 3 through 6, otherwise hit. 8 and lower – always hit. If you’re completely new to the blackjack rules and strategy, the whole thing may seem a bit confusing at first. Hi-low is always you versus the dealer. They use a standard pack of cards, shuffle it, then place a card face-down and another face-up. You then place a bet, which the dealer matches. Then, you have to decide whether the face-down card is of a higher or lower value. - The cards are distributed two by two, or otherwise, but it is never permitted to give more than three at a time, we begin with the right. The strongest card is the king; then come the lady, the valent, the ace, the ten, the nine, the eight, and the seven.
There are countless card games out there ranging over several genres. Most people are familiar with casino style games like poker and blackjack and almost everyone has sat down to a game of solitaire. But how to play Rook?
Trick-taking games are a specific style of card game, often played with a partner, and include favorites like Hearts, Euchre, Pinochle, and the game we’ll be discussing here, Rook. Most trick taking games are similar in their style of play but differ mainly in scoring and bidding. Let’s explore how to play Rook.Quick Navigation
Image via Pixabay
Rook is a trick-taking game that was introduced in the United States about a century ago. Parker Brothers designed a deck of card especially for the game in 1906 and it has been a staple of the genre since.
Though it is be possible to use a set or two of classic playing cards with a few alterations to play the game, it may be best to buy a Rook set of cards to play.
The length of the game depends on several factors. A round usually takes a few minutes, but, depending on the skill of the players and the point threshold you’ve chosen, a full game could take an hour or more. Also, trick-taking games are notorious for inciting that ’one more game’ impulse, whether you’ve won or lost.
A Rook deck is comprised of 57 cards. There are four suits with cards ranging from 1 to 14. The 57th card is a Rook card, typically featuring a picture of a bird, and the highest trump card in the game. When playing classic Rook, it’s common to remove the 1’s 2’s 3’s and 4’s from the deck. Other variations, such as the popular Kentucky West rules, leave those cards in.
When you’re learning how to play Rook, know that it first requires four players in teams of two sat opposite and kitty-corner from each other. This means all players sit diagonally from their partner and are unable to see anyone else’s hand.
The goal of Rook is to reach the point threshold before the opposing team. It is most common to play to 1000 points, but your group can opt to raise or lower this threshold as you see fit. You score points at the end of each round for taking certain cards when you win tricks. Most cards are not worth any points and those worth points are as follows:
*5 = 5 points
*10 = 10 points
*14 = 10 points
*Rook = 20 points
*Winning the last hand of ’trick’ = 20 points
Once the 1’s through 4’s have been removed and the Rook card has been added, there should be a deck of 41 cards. One player randomly selected starts as the dealer. The dealer should shuffle the deck thoroughly and present the deck to a player of the opposite team for a cut. After the cut, the dealer deals out all the cards one at a time to each player.
When each player has received one card, the dealer places the next card in the center of the table. This continues until five cards have accumulated in the center forming the ’nest’. The remaining cards are dealt normally so that each player will have a hand of nine cards. Bidding then begins.
Learning to bid is one of the toughest parts of learning how to play Rook. It may take several games before you feel comfortable assessing the strength of your hand and gauging your bids. The bid indicates how many points you believe your team can secure in the round. If you win the round but fail to meet the bid, you are penalized points during scoring.
Bidding begins with the player to the left of the dealer and continues around the circle clockwise. The bidding begins at 70 points and players have the option to either raise the bid by a minimum of 5 points or pass. Once you have passed, you cannot bid again this round. Bidding is capped at 120 points.
Once a player has made a bid and all other players have passed (or is a player bids 120 points) bidding is over. The winning bid takes the five nest cards, adds them to his/her hand and then chooses five cards to set aside. The player then declares the trump suit and round play begins.
Image via Pixabay
Play begins with the player to the left of the dealer. The dealer chooses any card of any suit and plays it down face-up. Continuing clockwise around the table, players choose and play a card from their hand. Players must follow suit if they are able or play the Rook Bird card. If a player does not have any cards of the lead suit, that player is free to play any card from their hand.
Once all players have played a card, the four cards are given to the player who won the trick. The Rook Bird is the highest trump in the game and always wins the trick is which it is played. If the Rook Bird was not played, the highest card of the trump suit wins. If no trumps were played, the highest card of the lead suit wins.
Whoever wins the trick leads in the following trick. Tricks won are placed face down in front the player who won the trick and cannot be reviewed or looked at by any player until after the round is over. Whoever wins the last trick is given the five nest cards that were set aside and scores any points within.
Once all tricks have been taken, teams add up all the points from their captured cards. Remember, only 5’s, 10’s, 14’s and the Rook are worth points. Teams then add those points to their total score.
If the team that won the bid failed to reach their winning bid, they are awarded no points and instead must subtract the bid amount from their score. The non-bidding team scores points as normal.
If a team reached the score threshold, they win the game. If both teams reach the score threshold simultaneously, the team with more points is the winner.
Image via Pixabay
There is no official way of ’how to play Rook.’ Many variations and house rules have emerged over time, and even you may want to change the rules to make the game more enjoyable for your play group. We’ll just go over a few common variations and rules changes
Kentucky West includes all the cards, one through fourteen, from each suit in addition to the Rook. Ones (or Aces) are the highest in their suit, making the card ranking. The 1’s are included in scoring and are worth 15 points each.
The rook has a different role in this variation and is treated as a zero of the trump suit, meaning it can still be playedat any time as a trump but will lose to any other trump in the game.
The addition of scoring 1’s means there are more points up for grabs in a round and the bidding threshold is raised to 180. The point threshold is often set at 500 in this variation.
This variations makes it so that each player has an individual score and teams can change round to round. Play is as normal except that once the high bidder has seen the nest and makes his choice of trump, he or she calls out a card. It must be a card the person doesn’t have or is in the nest.
Whoever has the card becomes the partner of the high bidder, but this information is kept secret until the called card has been played. Scoring functions as normal, but since teams change between rounds, each player’s score must be tracked separately.
Image via Pixabay
There are many slight variations to the game that you may want to make. Keep in mind that any of these rules should be agreed upon before the game begins and none of them make the game objectively better or worse, they are simply here to add flavor to the game.
If a player is dealt a hand with no point cards (5’s, 10’s, 14’s, a Rook, or 1’s) they may call for a misdeal. Reshuffle the cards and the same dealer deals a new hand.
If a team is able to take all tricks in one round, they score an additional 100 points. Some variations give additional points or immediate victory to a team that bids a max bid and takes all tricks.
Some variations call for the high bidder to never put point cards into the nest. If they are unable to do so do to having too many point cards, they must announce to the group that the nest contains points.
However, when this rule is not in effect it does have the added benefit of allowing the high bidder to stash points in the nest in a risky maneuver to win last trick.
Many trick taking games contain a pass phase after hands have been dealt. In some variations of Rook, this has been added.
After the high bidder has set aside the nest, all players choose three cards from their hand and pass it to an opponent. The passing alternates round by round, left then right then left again and so forth.
Image via Pixabay
So that’s it! Now you know how to play Rook, and you’ll have a lot of fun setting your own hour rules for you and your family.CassinoOriginEnglandTypeFishingFamilyMatchingPlayers2–4Skills requiredTacticsCards52DeckAnglo-AmericanPlayClockwisePlaying time10-15 min.Random chanceMediumRelated gamesEscoba, Scopa, Skwitz, Zwickern
Cassino (US) or Casino (Europe), is a fishing card game, often said without substantiation to be of Italian origin, for two, three, four (possibly in two partnerships), or even theoretically five players. It is the only fishing game to have penetrated the English-speaking world. It is mostly played by two with a standard deck of playing cards, the object of the game being to score 21 points by fishing up cards displayed on the table. It is very similar to the later Italian game Scopa.History[edit]
Although Cassino is often said to be of Italian origin, despite detailed research by Pratesi, there is no evidence of it ever being played in Italy and the earliest references to its Italian cousins, Scopa and Scopone, post-date those of Cassino.[1]
In fact, as ’Casino’, the game is first recorded in 1792 in England[2] where it appears to have become something of a fashionable craze.[1] At that stage, sweeps were not part of the rules – that came later.[1]
One country to follow hard on English heels was Austria-Hungary where, as early as 1795 in Vienna and Prague, rules were published that incorporated English terminology such as “sweep” and “lurch.”[3] Rules continued to be published in German until at least 1975.[4]
However, while the game began to fade away in England, it was in America that Cassino gained its second wind in the second half of the 19th century, largely due to several interesting new variants that emerged, including what became Royal Cassino, in which court cards were given a numerical value such that they could capture two or more cards, Spade Cassino, in which players scored for the most Spades, and Diamond Cassino, in which three cards are dealt instead of four. In America, it was eventually eclipsed by Gin Rummy.[1]The deal[edit]
The dealer deals four cards to each player and four cards face up in the center. Traditionally, the deal is in twos: two cards at a time to each player. The remainder of the deck is temporarily put aside. After everyone has played their four cards, another hand of four cards is dealt to each player from the remaining cards (two at a time), but no more cards are dealt to the table after the first deal. After these cards have been played there is another deal, and this continues until all 52 cards have been dealt. The dealer announces ’cards’ when dealing the last cards. After the last cards have been played, and the hand scored, the deal passes to the left for the next round.The play[edit]Casino Card Game Instructions And Rules Against
Beginning with the player to the dealer’s left, each player plays one card at a time, performing one (or more) of the following actions:
*Trailing: Any card may be discarded face up to the table.
*Pairing: Any card may be used to take one or more cards of the same number, or a build with the same value, that is face up on the table.
*Combining: A number card may be used to take two or more cards whose pips total the number on the card being used to take them. For example, a player may take a 3 and a 6 with a 9, or may take a 2, 4, and 4 with a 10.
*Building: Cards may be built upon in one of two ways (see Building).
Players may perform two of the above actions only when pairing and combining simultaneously; e.g. a player may take a 3, a 4 and a 7 with his own seven.
Players with builds on the table are limited in the actions they are permitted to make. This is described in more detail below.
Face cards do not have a denomination in Cassino and are not available for building. The face-cards may only be paired one at a time; if there are two queens on the table, only one queen can be paired up. This removes the possibility of a so-called ’orphan’ face card remaining and preventing further sweeps.
An ace has a numerical value of 1.
Cards are usually left on the table after each player’s final hand is exhausted. These cards are given to the last player to take in cards through pairing or combining. It is common for the dealer, if dealt a face-card in the final hand, to hold this until the final play, as they are certain to pair with it.Building[edit]
Under the first type of building, a player may lay one card on top of another if their total equals the total of a card in their hand, and announce that the two cards are built to the total. For example, a player may build a 2 onto a 7 and announce ’building nine,’ provided they have a 9 in their hand. The two cards cannot be split up for pairing or combining and are treated as a single nine.
Builds of this type may be taken in by any player by pairing. The building player’s adversaries may also take in a build by combination, increasing the capturing number; that is, an eight build may be combined with an ace if an adversary holds a nine. Any player may also continue to build on a build, for example, a seven build could be built to nine by a player with a 2 and a 9. The player who originally builds may also re-build, but only if they hold all appropriate cards: they would have to hold both a 7 and a 9 to make the required building steps.
Under the second type of building, called ’multiple building,’ ’natural building’, or ’double building,’ a player may lay one card on top of another if their values are the same, and announce that the two cards are built together. That is, a player can place a 7 on top of another 7, or on top of a 5 and a 2 which have been built to 7, and announce ’building sevens,’ provided that he has a 7 in his hand. The built cards are gathered only with another 7. As with the first build type, a player must hold the card necessary to gather his build for the natural build to be permissible. Importantly, the capturing number of a multiple build can never be changed.[5]
An optional rule is that, when building in this manner, players may combine other cards on the table, and build in the first manner. For example, suppose the cards on the table are 2 K 6 5 8, and the player holds a 3 and an 8. They may play their 3 onto the 5 to ’build eight’ and in the same move ’build eights’ by gathering the 5-3, the 8, and the 6-2 together onto one pile, taking in all five cards on their next play.Advantages gained through building[edit]
Building exists as a means of protecting cards from being captured by adversaries. The first form of building is a weaker form of protection, and primarily protects cards against combination by mid-to-high range cards. Natural building is a much stronger protection, and prevents adversaries from taking cards unless they hold a card of specific face value, one of which the builder already knows resides in their own hand.
The value of building decreases significantly as the number of players in the game increases. In a two-player game, one requires only one adversary to be bereft of the necessary cards; in a four-player game, one requires three adversaries to be lacking the necessary cards to steal a build. As such, building effectively in a two-player game can be very advantageous, but in a four-player game is very difficult.Acting with builds on the table[edit]
At least three rule variants exist dictating the actions which may be taken by a player who has a build on the table:
*Variant 1: a player with a build on the table is not permitted to trail a card until that build has been taken in or rebuilt upon by an adversary; they may, however, pair or continue their ’build’ with any card on the table.
*Variant 2: a player with a build on the table is obliged to either take in that build, by pairing or combination, or to add to that build on their next turn.
*Variant 3: A player with a build on the table cannot trail. Play must initiate from the hand. Continuing a build from only cards on the table is not allowed. You must either take in the build, duplicate it or increase it, OR defer by starting another build or assuming ownership of an opponent’s build. A build ’belongs’ to the last player that set its value. You may assume ownership of a build started by another by increasing it. But only if it consists of a single combination, i.e., not duplicated. You may have more than one build, but only one of any particular value, and having a build of the same value of another (an adversary’s) makes no sense at all.
While Hoyle recommends variant 1, all variants are very common in different regions. The regional variant of this rule in particular should always be checked before play.
Which variant is used changes the tactics, particularly in a two-player game. Under variant 1, the builder has a profound advantage; if they know that their adversary lacks the cards necessary to steal their build, they can often take several cards trailed by their adversary before taking in their build at the end of the round. Variant 2 allows the adversary to trail a card they wish to subsequently capture without the risk of it being taken, reducing the builder’s advantage.Scoring[edit]
The round is over when the stock has been exhausted, and the last deal played. Players count their tricks and score points as follows:
*Higher number of cards: 3
*Higher number of spades: 1
*10 of diamonds (’big cassino’, ’big ten’, or ’good ten’): 2
*2 of spades: (’li
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